This section is devoted to the information that will be useful in the creation of a Kin's Domains.
Raise a Compassionate Child
By Elizabeth Foy Larsen
Want a child who really, truly cares about others? Follow this advice on raising compassionate children from experts and parents.
Supper was not going well for 2-year-old Benjamin. As his frustrations escalated to the brink of a full-on tantrum, his 4-year-old sister, Ellie, assessed the scene. "He's angry," she told her mother, Susan Rivers, of Newton, Massachusetts. "What can we do to make him happy?" With her mom's help, Ellie brainstormed a few options. Perhaps they could offer Benjamin a cookie. Or maybe playing with his Legos would bring him out of his spiral. "She was really trying to understand his feelings and figure out what strategies she could use to reduce his frustration and cheer him up," Rivers says.
Ellie's concern for her brother is touching, to be sure. But it could also be the key to her having a more joyful life. Empathy -- the ability to understand and be sensitive to other people's feelings -- helps us to be more deeply attached to our family, friends, and even strangers. "Empathy is probably the greatest single gift of our species," says Bruce D. Perry, M.D., Ph.D., a senior fellow at the Child Trauma Academy, in Houston. "We wouldn't have been able to survive without creating relationships and groups that could function together."
Putting yourself in someone else's shoes is also a crucial building block for other caring emotions. "It's how we develop gratitude, hope, and compassion - which is the ability to act on your empathy," explains Christine Carter, Ph.D., a sociologist and happiness expert at the Greater Good Science Center at the University of California, Berkeley. One study there found that kids as young as 18 months could master a key component of empathy: the ability to tune in to people's emotions. By age 4, they move beyond making physical caring gestures and start to think about others' feelings in relation to their own. Many of these responses happen naturally, but you can make a more conscious effort to promote empathy-boosting experiences for your children. Consider these 11 things you can do to raise a truly caring child.
Show Empathy to Others
Your son notices if you are rude to your server when she brings you the wrong order. That's why San Francisco mom Kat Eden tries to be understanding when others make mistakes. Eden follows up with her sons, ages 5 and 7, with statements and questions such as, "I wonder how the waitress was feeling when she gave me the wrong meal" and "How do you think it would feel to be that busy at your job?"
Write Genuine Thank-You Notes
Eden also helps her kids move beyond the standard "Thank you for the Polly Pocket" boilerplate by asking questions such as, "What would it be like if you spent a lot of time choosing a great gift for a friend and she didn't thank you?" and "How do you think Timmy will feel when he gets his very own letter in the mail?" Don't insist that your child pen the note herself -- if she's young enough that merely thinking about what to say is a huge task, write it for her and let her sign it.
Be Consistent
If you tell your daughter to be mindful that her words have an impact on others' feelings but then you turn around and lay into your husband for some minor misstep, you're sending her confusing messages, says Robin Stern, Ph.D., adjunct associate professor of communications and education at Columbia University's Teachers College, in New York City. So apologize to your husband in front of your daughter. Then say something like, "I was feeling really sad that Daddy had to work tonight, and I took it out on him. I'm sorry I acted mean."
Boost Her "Feelings Vocabulary"
Spend a few minutes each day pointing out different expressions and giving them a name - happy, sad, mad, angry. You can ask your preschooler to help make "feelings flash cards" by cutting out pictures of faces from magazines and gluing them to index cards. As your child gets older, the emotions can get more nuanced - surprise, shyness, confusion, irritation - and you can add body language to the facial gestures. When you read books together, encourage your child to name the emotions of the different characters.
Praise Each Other Daily
Use mealtime as an opportunity for emotional reflection. "Try to resist fighting about food so you can focus on simply being together," says Dr. Perry. That's what the Cleveland family, of Minneapolis, does. They start their dinners by having each person, including their sons, ages 10 and 12, offer one compliment and one thank-you. "Some nights it's as simple as the fact that we're having hamburgers, but they appreciate the effort I took to make them. It's a nice way to connect," says Anne, the boys' mother.
Recognize Kindness
When you watch your daughter offering a playmate some apple slices, call attention to it by saying, "That was very kind of you to give her a few when you didn't have very many." Then add something like, "I'll bet she was a little envious that you brought a snack to the park when she didn't. How do you think it made your friend feel when you shared with her?"
But Don't Overdo It
Sure, it's great that your son can thank the convenience-store clerk. But lavishing praise on him for fairly ordinary tasks won't make him more empathetic. "Overpraising is a distraction," says Polly Young-Eisendrath, Ph.D. "When kids expect praise for very small accomplishments, it actually gets in the way of their thinking about other people's needs."
Address Your Child's Needs
If it's the middle of the afternoon and your toddler is melting down, Dr. Carter suggests you say something like, "You probably need a nap. I get grouchy when I'm tired too. Let's go home and lie down." This shows in a warm and loving way that you understand and respect how she's feeling.
Volunteer
You may worry that introducing kids to life's harsher realities will be too upsetting. But the reverse is actually true, says Dr. Carter. "Ironically, when you expose children to the sufferings of others, they end up feeling grateful for what they have and proud of being able to help someone." Every Christmas Eve since her three children (ages 5, 8, and 10) were born, Heidi King and her husband have taken the kids to volunteer at a homeless shelter near their house in Tallahassee, Florida. "We teach them that they have been blessed and that it is their responsibility to help others," says King. "And I want them to see this as a responsibility - not an option. My 8-year-old, upon learning that a lunchroom lady's house had burned, took her piggy bank to school without telling me and donated the entire contents - more than $100. She thought they could use it to buy food."
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Brave New Child: 8 Smart Ways to Teach Independence, Self-Confidence and Resilience
By Robin Westen
If you're like me, the notion of "risk-taking" kids conjures up images of broken bones - or even worse. Yet whether it's a baby tasting a spoonful of strained spinach, a toddler taking her first steps, or a preschooler telling the truth about a mess he's made, all kids need a courageous spirit to adjust to the surefire changes that come along with growing up.
Get Ready, Set, Go!
When he was a toddler, my son, Gabe, loved to dress up as Superman. Turns out it was a pretty good choice. Fortunately, he didn't try to leap tall buildings in a single bound, but as he got older, he became a champ at mustering courage and taking a chance. If a magician at a birthday party asked for volunteers, his hand shot up. The merry-go-round's tallest horse always grabbed his interest. New friends? The more, the merrier. Unlike his nail-biting mom, Gabe was naturally spunky, so I had to learn early on to stifle my own anxiety, breathe deeply, and let him take safe risks.
A child's sense of bravery may also shift depending on the situation. "Some kids may hide behind a parent's legs when meeting strangers but be fearless when trying out a new scooter," says Susan Davis, Ph.D. "However, the good news is that all kids yearn to explore their world." That's why it's so important to encourage your child's sense of adventure and self-confidence. These smart strategies will do just that.
Be a Safety Zone
Some children try new stuff eagerly, while others hold back because they're shy or don't want to attempt anything until they're 100 percent positive they can do it right. Change your expectations to accommodate your timid child's uncertainty.
"Rather than getting annoyed that your kid is clinging to you in gymnastics class, for instance, just let her sit on your lap until she feels comfortable -- even if it takes a few sessions," says Dr. Hadley. If you don't push, you'll give her the space to get used to the idea of doing something new. And when the time is right, she'll have the confidence to give it a whirl.
That's the strategy Brattleboro, Vermont, mom Diana Whitney took when her 4-year-old daughter, Ava, was too nervous to go down the slide on their new backyard swingset. "I just waited for her to feel ready," she says. "Once her 9-month-old sister, Carmen, slid down without hesitation, Ava followed right behind." Courage can also be contagious!
Nurture a Conscience
"Young children are beginning to learn the difference between right and wrong, and to understand how others can get hurt," says Dr. Hadley. But it takes bravery to stand up for what you know is right when everyone around you isn't taking the high road. You can help by praising your child if she defends a child who is being teased ("That was really kind of you") or she returns a toy to its rightful owner ("You should be proud that you did the right thing").
Foster Bravery at Bedtime
Okay, this one may sound a bit wacky, but motivational speaker and performance coach Jim Fannin - who has conducted seminars for an estimated half million parents to boost their children's confidence - says that this trick really works with children who are 2 and older. After you have tucked your child into bed and he's almost ready to drift off to sleep, tiptoe into his room. Speaking in a low voice, slowly say, "I ... believe ... in ... you." The next morning, greet him with an upbeat message such as, "Good morning, Champ!" Repeat this three or four times a week. "Studies have shown that the mind is most receptive to positive suggestions just before going to sleep," says Fannin, who has seen great results from using this sort of direct messaging technique with children as well as champion athletes.
Go Slowly
Rather than expecting your child to plunge into a new situation, let her try it out. If she's anxious about making new friends, create a playgroup mixing old buddies with a couple of new ones. Doesn't like new foods? Serve something different alongside one of her faves. Dr. Hadley says, "A sense of familiarity creates an emotional safety net for cautious kids."
Hold On to the Lovey
It's natural to want your child to feel secure enough to leave home without his cuddly blanket or favorite stuffed animal-and, of course, you don't want him to take it somewhere and lose it. However, it's totally fine to let him carry his buddy around for as long as he needs to, says Dr. Reznick. "These objects give kids a feeling of power over their fear," says Dr. Reznick. "Wearing costumes or capes and even talking to an imaginary friend can have a similar effect." Just keep an eye on that lovey so it doesn't get left behind.
Play It Out
Hide-and-seek is a perfect game to help young kids learn to deal with separation and the unknown, says Dr. Davis. It takes them a step beyond what feels comfortable -- you're there, you disappear, then you're back!
Tune In
Instead of coaxing your kid to attempt a new sport or get on a bike, ask him to describe why he doesn't want to. "Listen without judging or trying to change his mind," says Naomi Aldort, Ph.D. Try saying "I see how scared you are. What do you think could happen?" By validating his feelings, you're helping him develop emotional awareness so he can make confident decisions. This paves the way to a more independent, responsible, adventurous life.
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Avant Garde Parenting: Teaching Children Independence
What Are Probiotics?
Repeatedly demonstrated to aid gastrointestinal health in the human body, acidophilus and other probiotics are key elements of our overall health and well being. This is particularly true when we consider that many of our common-day chronic ailments begin in the digestive system. It is also true when we consider the sheer number of people that suffer from poor gastrointestinal health, a condition which lowers the overall level of good bacteria in the body.
Before we go into the multi-fold benefits of taking probiotics, let's define what probiotics are. The Joint FAO/WHO Working Group defines probiotics as "live microorganisms which when administered in adequate amounts confer a health benefit on the host."
In plain English, probiotics are a type of living bacteria that actually benefit your health when taken in the appropriate amounts. This friendly bacteria, located in the gastrointestinal tract, comes in a variety of forms. With more than 400 different bacteria living in the human gastrointestinal tract, the most common forms of intestinal probiotics are L. acidophilus and Bifidobacteria bifidum.
These bacteria act as balancing agents for non-friendly, pathogenic, gut-bacteria such as Candida or E. coli. When the "good-guys" are not present enough, a number of bacteria-related health problems such as digestive upset, headaches, sluggishness, irritability, cadidiasis (an overgrowth of the bacteria Candida albicans), and even anxiety can ensue.
Lactobacillus acidophilus is, quite possibly, the strongest of our probiotic fighters. Studies show that L. acidophilus actually creates a natural form of antibiotics in the body. This natural antibiotic increases our ability to produce antimicrobial action against the pathogens in the food we eat, the air we breath, and the things we come in contact with. Stress, unhealthy lifestyles, and most importantly, unhealthy acidic diets, destroy our natural amounts of probiotics. In this sense, it is a great idea to add a probiotic supplement to your diet.
The Health Benefits of Probiotics
The following health benefits are associated with the intake of daily doses of probiotics.
- Enhanced immune system response
- Reduces negative affects of taking many types of antibiotics
- Aids in preventing and treating colon inflammation following surgery
- Helps to prevent eczema in youth
- Increased ability to digest food
- Therapeutic for viral respiratory tract infections by enhancing the overall immune system
- Reduces lactose intolerance
- Reduces incidence of yeast infections, vaginitis and candidiasis
- Increases ability to assimilate the nutrients from food
- Alleviates many common digestive disorders such as constipation, diarrhea and IBS
- Acts as a remedy for bad breath (halitosis)
- Increases ability to synthesize vitamin B
- Increases ability to absorb calcium
- Promotes anti-tumor and anti-cancer activity in the body
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Who Should Take Probiotics?
There is no question that candiasis sufferers require supplemental use of probiotics to replenish beneficial GI bacteria and rebuild the immune system. Even if you don't have candidiasis, environmental and food toxins, coupled with the high-stress lifestyle of most North Americans, are good indicators of the widespread need for probiotics.
This is especially true if you are consistently taking antibiotics, or if you have ever been on a course of particularly strong antibiotics, have frequent colds, or exhibit any symptoms of candida related problems. The reason for this is that antibiotics kill bacteria both good and bad. Despite their value, antibiotics have been overused to the point that there are at least two bacteria that have developed complete resistance to antibiotics. Needless to say, these bacteria present a serious problem to our health.
Studies on Probiotics
- Studies show that probiotics improve the bio-availability of many important nutrients in the body such as zinc, iron, phosphorus, all of the B vitamins, calcium, copper, and magnesium.
- A study on the probiotic strain B. infantis showed powerful abilites to normalize bowel function in patients suffering from Irritable Bowel Syndrome (IBS).
- Probiotics have been shown to significantly lower the rate of diarrhea and diaper rash in babies' consuming infant probiotics.
- Active bacteria cultures, such as acidophilus, have been shown to aid in reducing intolerance to lactose found in dairy products.
- Several studies on probiotics have indicated that through the process of regulating intestinal transit time of fecal matter, probiotics can dramatically reduce constipation in the elderly.
- Other reports indicate that some forms of probiotics, can aid in promoting the growth of healthy bacteria in the colon, significantly lowering the conversion of bile in the colon into carcinogens.
- Some studies demonstrate that probiotics enhance overall immunity through a process of regulating lymphocytes and antibodies in the body.
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Dr. Perricone's No. 10 Superfood: Yogurt and Kefir
Kefir's Colorful and Romantic History
Kefir dates back many centuries - likely even longer - to the shepherds of the Caucasus Mountains, who reportedly discovered that fresh milk carried in leather pouches would occasionally ferment into an effervescent beverage.
Another legend, from the Islamic peoples of the Caucasus Mountains, claims that kefir "grains" were a gift to the region's Orthodox Christians from Mohammed, who strictly forbade their dissemination, because they would lose their "magic strength." Although Marco Polo mentioned it in his travel accounts, kefir and its secrets remained unknown outside the Caucasus region until reports spread of its value in treating tuberculosis, and for intestinal and stomach disorders. Russian doctors of the Victorian era believed that kefir was beneficial for health and the first scientific studies for kefir were published in the late 19th century.
This mildly self-carbonated beverage continues to be popular in the Caucasus, Russia and southwestern Asia, and recently gained wide popularity in Western Europe. In the United States, most natural food stores and the "whole food" chain markets found in urban areas - such as Whole Foods Market and Wild Oats - carry kefir. Given the ever-increasing popularity of yogurt and yogurt drinks here, I predict it won't be long before the big U.S. supermarket chains follow suit. However, as with yogurt, beware of products laden with sugars and fructose. Buy plain, unsweetened kefir and flavor with mixed berries, including acai.
Kefir's Health Benefits
In addition to kefir's ancient reputation as a healthy drink, it has been famously credited with the extraordinary longevity of people in the Caucasus. Hospitals in the former Soviet Union use kefir - especially when no modern medical treatment is available - to treat conditions ranging from atherosclerosis, allergic disease, metabolic and digestive disorders and tuberculosis to cancer and gastrointestinal disorders.
A number of studies conducted to date have documented kefir's ability to stimulate the immune system, enhance lactose digestion, and inhibit tumors, fungi and pathogens - including the bacteria that cause most ulcers. This makes a lot of sense as scientists have since discovered that most ulcers are caused by an infection with the bacterium, Helicobacter pylori and not spicy food, stomach acid or stress, as physicians erroneously believed for years.
Scientists are now discovering that a great many inflammatory diseases (including certain types of heart disease) can be triggered by a bacterium. And that provides all the more reason to enjoy kefir as part of your daily diet.
Yogurt vs. Obesity
A daily dose of yogurt is good for people of all ages. Yogurt is also important for those wanting to lose weight. As a milk product, yogurt is naturally rich in calcium. Research shows that calcium helps reduce weight gain. Even small changes in the calcium levels of fat cells can change signals within the cell that control the making and burning of fat.
The authors of a 2003 study at the University of Tennessee placed 34 obese people on a low-calorie diet. Sixteen of them were given 400 to 500mg of calcium in the form of a daily supplement. The other 18 people ate a diet higher in calcium - 1,100mg per day-in the form of yogurt. After 12 weeks, both groups lost fat. The supplement-taking group had 6 pounds less fat, but the yogurt group lost about 10 pounds of fat. And, those who ate yogurt discovered that their waists shrank by more than an inch and a half. In comparison, the supplement-taking subjects lost only about a quarter of an inch in waist size. Finally, a whopping 60 percent of the yogurt eaters' weight loss was belly fat, while only 26 percent of the supplement group's loss was belly fat.
This is very exciting news as belly fat - which doctors call visceral or intra-abdominal fat - is linked to high cholesterol, high insulin, high triglycerides, high blood pressure and other problems. Visceral fat may also secrete more disease-linked inflammatory molecules than other types of fat.
The study also reported that in addition to helping the participants lose more weight, the group that ate yogurt was about twice as effective at maintaining lean muscle mass. As the study director, Michael Zemel, PhD, stated in a news release, "This is a critical issue when dieting. You want to lose fat, not muscle. Muscle helps burn calories, but it is often compromised during weight loss." I couldn't agree more!
Always buy organic yogurt and avoid yogurt that contains thickeners and stabilizers. Also avoid yogurt that contains added sugars or sweetened fruit, as these upset the delicate chemical balance that allow the cultures to thrive. Sugars also feed the growth on unwanted yeasts, such as Candida albicans.
Kefir: Ancient Elixir of the Caucasus
I start every morning by pouring myself a glass of unsweetened whole milk kefir and add to it 2 tablespoons of POM Wonderful (pure pomegranate extract). I stir it up and it looks and tastes like a rich and beautiful berry smoothie. It is the perfect way to start the day.
Kefir (kee-fer) is a fermented, probiotic milk drink from the Caucasus Mountains in the former Soviet Union. The name kefir loosely translated means "pleasure" or "good feeling." Due to its health-promoting properties, kefir was once considered a gift from the gods. Fortunately it is being rediscovered and recognized for its many health and beauty benefits.
Kefir can best be described as a sort of liquid, sparkling yogurt, with its own distinct and deliciously mild, naturally sweet, yet tangy flavor - with a refreshing hint of natural carbonation. Its unique taste and almost mystical reputation as a longevity elixir explains why people all over Europe are making kefir (along with similar fermented drinks) their beverage of choice. Sales are even beginning to rival top soft drink brands.
Unlike yogurt, which is created from milk by adding certain lactic acid bacteria, kefir is made by combining milk with a pinch of "kefir grains" - the folk term coined to describe a complex mixture of yeasts and lactobacillus bacteria. The small amount of carbon dioxide, alcohol and aromatic compounds produced by the cultures give kefir its distinct fizzy, tangy taste.
Kefir also contains unique polysaccharides (long chain sugars) called kefiran, which may be responsible for some of its health benefits. Much of the Russian research on its health benefits remains untranslated, and Western research is in its early stages - but the results to date support kefir's impressive folk reputation.
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Raw Milk Kefir using Kefir Grains
Get to know your parasite enemies
What types of parasites are there? And where do they come from?
According to "The Medical Advisor," the most common parasites that infest humans are pinworms, roundworms, hookworms, and tapeworms. There are also smaller parasites such as flukes, protozoa, amoebae, and fungi. Pinworms tend to live in people's lower intestinal tracts and lungs. To deposit eggs, the female worm leaves the anal area at night. This causes an irritating itch that, when scratched, transfers the eggs to the host's fingers and to whatever those fingers touch - throughout an entire household. The eggs are so tiny; they even float through the air! If inadvertently inhaled or ingested, the eggs hatch in the intestines and start a new cycle in a new host.
The roundworm that causes ascariasis enters the body in unwashed or contaminated raw food. It may also be picked up from soil. If you're wondering how they got into the soil - its usually because a pet or animal deposited infested feces into the soil. And be sure to wash the salad mixes that come in plastic bags. These have often been found to be contaminated by cow manure when the salad mix is prepared near a pasture.
Hookworms and threadworms enter the body in contaminated drinking water or through bare feet (yes, they pass right through the skin into the soles of the feet)! Then the larvae migrate to the small intestine, where they may live for several years, taking nutrients from the intestinal walls. And while they live in the small intestine, they lay more and more eggs. What happens to these eggs (also called ovum)? Some of the eggs are passed in the feces (and whatever those feces touch becomes contaminated). The rest of the eggs either hatch right there in the intestines to become mature worms that lay their own eggs or incubate to hatch at a future date. Research has shown that ovum can incubate 10 years or more before hatching!
You can contract the roundworm that causes trichinosis by eating raw or undercooked pork or game - which may contain living worm larvae encased in cysts. After your digestive juices dissolve the cysts, the larvae circulate through the blood and lymphatic system before digging into muscle tissue and forming a cyst with new larvae.
Tapeworms also enter the body in raw or undercooked beef, fish, or pork. In some cases, children swallow tapeworm-infested fleas or lice that live on small animals or household pets. And flukes are so tiny that they can pass through skin if you swim in a lake containing the small snails which harbor them.
Then there are the even smaller kinds - the protozoa, amoebae, fungi - that exist in water and food.
PARASITE: A living organism, which receives nourishment and shelter from another organism where it thrives.
HOST: An organism which harbours the parasite = US!
and parasites are definitely one type of visitor that's not welcomed to the body.
The term parasite relates to 'any living thing that lives on or in another living organism'. Many parasites interfere with bodily functions, cause irritation; some destroy the host’s tissues and release toxins into the bloodstream.
There are 2 types of parasites. There are large ones referred to as worms and small ones that require a microscope to see.
Diseases caused by worms - round and flat worms.
The large worms while in an immature form can travel through your blood stream and infect any organ, gland or part of the body. Depending on the type of worm, they can grow anywhere from several inches up to many feet in length. They can lay thousand up to millions of eggs each day. The eggs stick to the walls of our intestines and can be microscopic in size. These large worms are called HEMINTHINS or INTESTINAL NEMATODES. The fish tape worm is the largest of the human tapeworms and can reach up to 33 feet in length or more! Beef and pork also have tapeworms.
Protozoal diseases - various amoebic infections (single celled, microscopic protozoa)
The small ones travel through your blood stream like bacteria or virus. They reproduce by dividing themselves much like bacteria do.
They too can invade any cell in the body. These small ones are called PROTOZOA.
There are also various classes of parasites depending on whether they live outside on the surface of the body or live inside the body of the host; either in the body's tissues, body's cavities, digestive tract or other organs, Worms of various kinds can enter the body through several avenues and if conditions are favourable for their development they may multiply. If this colony is not kept in check by the body's own defenses, the infestation soon becomes a burden on the body and health is downgraded.
Intestinal parasites are most often due to insufficient or negligent hygiene, poorly washed foods or polluted water. All of these undesirable invaders take nutrients from the body and excrete hazardous wastes, which are destructive to the body, irritating and injuring. For example, allergies, arthritis, asthma or even nerve disorders can often be directly linked to parasite infections. Mild parasite infections can be completely asymptomatic, which does not make them less hazardous. It could be that a mild vague feeling (not feeling 100%), digestive Problems, colic, irritable, fatigue, off colour and generalised or localised pruritus (itchiness) are experienced. Heavy infestations can cause Symptoms of abdominal pain and diarrhoea. Very heavy infestations can cause blood loss, anaemia, weight loss, appendicitis and even death!
The aim is to avoid becoming infected and strengthening the body to resist infestation. Worms l-o-v-e sugar, acid conditions and constipation. So therefore, a diet high in fibre and alkalising food is the best prevention and cure for infestations.
Symptoms of Parasites:
The word parasite comes from Greek meaning "one who eats off the table of another." Parasites eat and live off the food we consume, even our health supplements. They leave us the scraps. They often make us feel that we are not getting the nutrition from our food or that SOMETHING IS MISSING.
- INABILITY TO GAIN OR LOSE WEIGHT
- CHRONIC CANDIDA
- YEAST INFECTIONS
- CHRONIC SINUS OR EAR INFECTIONS
- URINARY TRACT INFECTIONS
- ITCHY EARS OR NOSE
- ANAL ITCHING, ESPECIALLY AT NIGHT
- DIGESTIVE PROBLEMS
- GAS AND BLOATING
- DIARRHEA
- MUCUSY STOOLS
- HEMORRHOIDS
- CONSTIPATION
- IRRITABLE BOWEL SYNDROME
- GRINDING TEETH WHILE SLEEPING
- HEART PAIN
- NUMB HANDS
- PAIN IN THE NAVEL
- PAIN IN THE BACK,THIGHS OR SHOULDERS
- ARTHRITIC PAINS
- BURNING IN THE STOMACH
- BED WETTING
- DROOLING WHILE SLEEPING
- ANY MENSTRUAL COMPLAINT
- CYSTS AND FIBROIDS
- EATING MORE AND STILL BEING HUNGRY
- ALL SKIN PROBLEMS
- FORGETFULNESS
- DEPRESSION
- CHRONIC FATIGUE
- CHRONIC VIRAL SYNDROMES
- PROSTATE PROBLEMS AND SEXUAL DYSFUNCTION IN MEN
- WATER RETENTION (mostly from tapeworms)
- CRAWLING FEELING UNDER THE SKIN
- FLOATERS
- LIVER/GALLBLADDER TROUBLE
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And the list goes on and on. We must now be realistic. If 85% to 95% of the population, healthy or sick, has parasites, any illness can be suspected as having as its cause, parasites!
It is now being considered that perhaps 50% of all cancer, diabetes, asthma, arthritis and heart disease comes from parasites!
What do Parasites do to us?
Parasites eat and eliminate wastes every day. They not only eat our food, BUT MANY OF THEM EAT HUMAN TISSUES. They also can eat the protein coating on your nerves.
Endo limax nana is a parasite that has been found to eat the calcium off our bones causing forms of arthritis. Entamoeba Histolytica can get into the liver, the lungs and the brain.
Immature forms of a worm called ROUND WORM, ALSO KNOWN AS ASCARIS, CAN GET INTO OUR LUNGS AND MAY CAUSE ASTHMA.
Many cases of chronic anemia can be from a parasite called HOOKWORM, also known as NECATOR AMERICANUS meaning AMERICAN MURDER. This parasite attaches itself to the lining of or intestines and bites into our blood vessels. It is capable of drinking an enormous amount of blood everyday. Hemoglobin levels as low as 15% of normal have been found in people with chronic hookworm disease.
Experts now feel that even seizures may be caused by parasites or even worms that can get into our brains!
Recently in her book, Dr. Hulga Clark speculates that Diabetes can be caused by a worm called a FLUKE which can get into the pancreas and cause it to malfunction. Many researchers, including myself, have seen this to be true! The TV show "60 Minutes" highlighted a story of many children who had bloated bellies and had died of unknown causes. It was found upon autopsy that these children had died of DOG HEART TAPE WORMS. Tape worms that these children had picked up from dogs and had infected their bodies.
It is now being considered that heart disease and heart attacks may be higher in dog owners as these owners have had their hearts infected by these worms. This condition has been confirmed by autopsy.
Another type of roundworm is called whip worms. They inject a digestive fluid into our colon which turns the tissue of our colons into a liquid which the worm then sucks up. Pinworms have recently been found in the uterus, vulva and the fallopian tubes of some of my female patients. This is because when the worm travels to lay its eggs, it can get lost on its way back to the colon. In other words, it travels out of the colon, out of the anus into the vaginal area and gets lost on its way back. It's no wonder women can get rid of their vaginal infects. Worms can be crawling out of the anus carrying bacteria and candida right into the reproductive areas.
And to make matters worse they do this at night while your asleep.
Parasites release toxic wastes. These wastes are actually their feces and urine. Parasite urine is practically pure ammonia. Parasite wastes stress the kidneys, liver and immune system.
How do we get parasites?
The primary way is from our food and water. Over 50% of our food and water is infected. Dr. Hulda Clark points out that much of the food we eat, the personal care items we use like shampoo, hand lotions and commercial cleaning solutions are high in solvents. The two most common solvents are BENZENE and PROPYL ALCOHOL. These solvents cause the microscopic eggs from parasites to hatch quickly in our bodies. Many years ago, before we were exposed to these chemicals, the parasite eggs would pass through our bodies leaving us safe. The eggs of parasites are microscopic and are the real danger. They can be passed sexually, through shaking hands, walking barefoot, eating or drinking from someone else's glass, bottle, can, fork etc., swimming in polluted lakes, rivers or streams, even by going to the beach.
Recent surveys have found that livestock inspectors might be missing as many as 1/2 of the parasite infected animals that go to slaughter.
Dr. Brooks claims that "eggs are readily transported through the air and it is not uncommon to find them in every room in the house...complications are much common in women then men."
Get to know your parasite enemies:
Ascaris Lumbricoides, large roundworm of humans, is the most common nematode parasite of humans, infecting an estimated 1.47 billion individuals. Pathology can result from pneumonia caused by the worm's migration through the lungs, blocking of the gastrointestinal track or the bile or pancreatic duct. Ascaris Lumbricoides is physically indistinguishable from Ascaris suum.
It is estimated that pinworms infect more than 400,000,000 people throughout the world (10% of humans), and in many areas of the world (e.g., North America and Europe) it is the most common nematode parasite of humans. On a world-wide basis, however, Ascaris lumbricoides ranks #1 infecting more than 1,000,000,000 people (25% of humans).
The Tapeworm genus Hymenolepis contains in excess of 400 species (according to some authorities), virtually all of which are found in higher vertebrates. The life cycles for most species are unknown, but it's likely that they all involve insects as the intermediate host (with a cysticercoid as the metacestode stage).
There are many species of hookworms that infect mammals. The most important, at least from the human standpoint, are the human hookworms, Ancylostoma duodenale and Necator americanus, which infect an estimated 800,000,000 persons, and the dog and cat hookworms, A. caninum and A. braziliense, respectively. Hookworms average about 10 mm in length and live in the small intestine of the host. The males and females mate, and the female produces eggs that are passed in the feces. Depending on the species, female hookworms can produce 10,000-25,000 eggs per day. About two days after passage the hookworm egg hatches, and the juvenile worm (or larva) develops into an infective stage in about five days. The next host is infected when an infective larva penetrates the host's skin. The juvenile worm migrates through the host's body and finally ends up in the host's small intestine where it grows to sexual maturity. The presence of hookworms can be demonstrated by finding the characteristic eggs in the feces; the eggs can not, however, be differentiated to species.
The mouthparts of hookworms are modified into cutting plates. Attachment of hookworms to the host's small intestine causes hemorrhages, and the hookworms feed on the host's blood. Hookworm disease can have devastating effects on humans, particularly children, due to the loss of excessive amounts of blood.
Juveniles (larvae) of the dog and cat hookworms can infect humans, but the juvenile worms will not mature into adult worms. Rather, the juveniles remain in the skin where they continue to migrate for weeks (or even months in some instances). This results in a condition known as "cutaneous" or "dermal larval migrans" or "creeping eruption." Hence the importance of not allowing dogs and cats to defecate indiscriminately.
Strongyloides stercoralis is an unusual "parasite" in that it has both free-living and parasitic life cycles. In the parasitic life cycle, female worms are found in the superficial tissues of the human small intestine; there are apparently no parasitic males. The female worms produce larvae parthenogenically (without fertilization), and the larvae are passed in the host's feces. The presence of nematode larvae in a fecal sample is characteristic of strongylodiasis. Once passed in the feces, some of the larvae develop into "free-living" larvae, while others develop into "parasitic" larvae. The "free-living" larvae will complete their development in the soil and mature into free-living males and females. The free-living males and females mate, produce more larvae, and (as above) some of these larvae will develop into "free-living" larvae, while other will develop into "parasitic larvae." As one might imagine, this free-living life cycle constitutes an important reservoir for human infections.
The "parasitic" larvae infect the human host by penetrating the skin (like the hookworms). The larvae migrate to the lungs, via the circulatory system, penetrate the alveoli into the small bronchioles, and they are "coughed up" and swallowed. Once they return to the small intestine, the larvae mature into parasitic females.
S. stercoralis also infects humans via a mechanism called "autoinfection." Under some circumstances, such as chronic constipation, larvae produced by the parasitic females will remain in the intestinal tract long enough to develop into infective stages. Such larvae will penetrate the tissues of the intestinal tract and develop as if they had penetrated the skin. Autoinfection can also occur when larvae remain on and penetrate the perianal skin. Autoinfection often leads to very high worm burdens in humans.
Since the parasitic females live in the superficial tissues of the small intestine, and can be present in high numbers, they can cause significant pathology.
There are approximately 60 species of whipworms that infect mammals. Only two are considered here, the human whipworm, Trichuris trichiura, and the canine whipworm, T. vulpis. These two species have a high degree of host specificity, but canine whipworms have been recovered from humans on rare occasions.
Whipworms get their name from the characteristic shape of the adults. The adults live in the host's large intestine with their anterior ends embedded in the cells that line the intestine; each female can produce in excess of 10,000 eggs each day, and the worms can live several years. The eggs are passed in the host's feces, and they become infective in about three weeks. When an infective egg is eaten by the appropriate host it hatches in the small intestine, and the juvenile worm migrates to the large intestine where it reaches sexual maturity.
Most infections of whipworms are probably asymptomatic. However, because the worms live a long time and a person can be reinfected constantly, heavy worm burdens can develop. Symptoms of whipworm infection can include diarrhea, dysentery, and anemia. Heavy infections in children can cause mental and physical retardation. Diagnosis depends on the demonstration of eggs, which have a characteristic appearance, in the feces.
Fasciola hepatica the common name of this parasite, the "sheep liver fluke," is somewhat misleading since this parasite is found in animals other than sheep (including cattle and humans), and the parasite resides in the bile ducts inside the liver rather than the liver itself. This species is a common parasite of sheep and cattle and, therefore, relatively easy to obtain.
The adult parasites reside in the intrahepatic bile ducts, produce eggs, and the eggs are passed in the host's feces. After passing through the first intermediate host (a snail), cercariae encyst on vegetation. The definitive host is infected when it eats the contaminated vegetation. The metacercaria excysts in the definitive host's small intestine, and the immature worm penetrates the small intestine and migrates through the abdominal cavity to the host's liver. The juvenile worm penetrates and migrates through the host's liver and finally ends up in the bile ducts. The migration of the worms through the host's liver, and the presence of the worms in the bile ducts, are responsible for the pathology associated with fascioliasis.
Fasciola hepatica is found in parts of the United States, as well as in Great Britian, Ireland, Europe, the Middle East, the Far East, Africa, and Australia. Fascioliasis in sheep and cattle results in animals that show low productivity (low weight gain, low milk production, etc.).
What you can do:
Make sure that you wash your hands several times a day and especially after going to the rest room or if around animals. Never let your pets sleep in your bed or lick you on the mouth. Always wash yourself after a pet licks you.
Cook your meat and fish until it has no visible pink and is getting dry. I'm sorry, but that's the way it is. Do not leave food out over night. The longer food sits out, the quicker the incubation period for parasites can begin. Always wash or peel raw fruits and vegetables. RAW FRUITS AND VEGETABLES CAN BE BIGGER SOURCE OF PARASITES THAN MEAT!!. Do not allow yourself to remain constipated. If your bowels do not move at least 2-3 times a day read up on CONSTIPATION REMEDIES diagnosis, causes, relief and treatments. The longer your feces stays in your digestive tract the greater a chance you have for parasites to grow.
THE LOST PRACTICE OF DE-WORMING
Prior to the 1930's it was very common that people would take castor oil, mineral oil or some type of herbal mixture to clear themselves of parasites. Each ethnic had their own way of doing this. This was done every six months, once a year or with the change in seasons.
In this way, people kept themselves clear of parasites. Medical doctors in the 1800's would commonly supervise the de-worming of their patients every 6 months, or once a year. Could this be where the traditional 6 month or annual check-up comes from?
In Europe, the medical community still recommends that you de-worm yourself, your animals and pets every six months.
If you are healthy, your body is handling the damage and poisons produced by these parasites and they are not producing disease your body. However, they may begin to produce disease at any time, depending on your life style, diet, and level of stress.
[In Russia a Turpentine Balsam was often used as a supplement for de-worming, since its natural bitterness kills parasites and its oily consitency prevents worms to hoock up to the intestine walls. Also the Turpentine Balsam boosts immune system which, in its turn, fights parasites.]
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How to build your immune system to fight off intestinal parasites
The first thing you do can do to make your body less hospitable to intestinal parasites is to build up your immune system. Strong immune systems will expel foreign objects in your body and cause your intestinal system to be inhospitable to parasites. You don’t want the parasites considering your intestines a luxury accommodation filled with all their favorite foods and nothing asking them to leave. Daily we are wearing down our immune systems with chemicals, food intolerances, lack of sleep, high levels of stress and an inactive lifestyle. By supporting your immune system and not overwhelming it, you will be keeping your immune system strong enough to fight off parasites.
Build a defensive immune system against parasites
Check your daily intake of these foods and nutrients to see if your giving your body what it needs to fight off the intestinal parasites that may be the cause of your intestinal problems.
- Vitamin C increases the production of infection-fighting white blood cells and antibodies and increases levels of interferon, the antibody that coats cell surfaces, preventing the entry of viruses.[Viruses and infections also have parasitic nature.]
- Vitamin E stimulates the production of natural killer cells, those that seek out and destroy germs and cancer cells.
- Zinc increases the number of infection-fighting T-cells and have been claimed to decreased the severity of infections.
- Garlic. Is a powerful immune booster that stimulates the multiplication of infection-fighting white cells, boosts natural killer cell activity, and increases the efficiency of antibody production.
- Omega-3 fatty acids. The omega 3 fatty acids in cedar nut oil and fatty fish (such as salmon, tuna, and mackerel) act as immune boosters by increasing the activity of phagocytes, the white blood cells that eat up bacteria.
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Wage war on parasites and the intestinal problems they are causing
Your armory:
- Don't feed them! Avoid simple carbohydrates and all sugars but honey.
- Increase your intake of cedar nut oil, raw garlic, pumpkin seeds, pomegranates, beets, and carrots. These are traditional remedies to kill parasites. In one study, researchers found that a mixture of honey and papaya seeds cleared stools of parasites in 23 out of 30 subjects.
- Drink a lot of water to help flush out your system.
- Increase your fiber intake, which may help get rid of worms by scraping clean the sides of your intestines.
- Probiotics help keep your digestive flora healthy.
- Digestive enzymes will help restore your intestinal tract to its normal state, which makes it inhospitable to parasites.
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Now you know what they are, what they do, how you may have picked them up, how to eat to prevent them and how to eat to get rid of them. Don’t be overwhelmed, begin by making just one change today. If you make one change a week within a few months your body can be a parasite fighting machine and your intestinal problems can begin to be a distant memory.
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Boost Your Immune System
Greenhouse in a Swimming Pool - Winter Harvest
Salad greens, chives and braising greens thrive in this winter growing space, a greenhouse converted from an old swimming pool. Outside temperatures dipped down as low as 3F (-17C); yet this space remains productive without any additional heat. It is heated by the sun during the day, and stays relatively warm (around 32F (0C)) on coldest of nights. Plants are happy and harvest is in full swing.
This unheated growing space was created in an old swimming pool that has fallen into disrepair. Old swimming pools are hard fix; this one was built in the 1950-s and doubled up as water cistern for irrigating fields and pastures. It is made with poured-in-place cement and a 4'5" (1.3 meter) earth embankment on three sides - and making anything functional out of it was really an interesting project. Being a hole in the ground, it collects water (the old drain does not function); and also functions as a default catchment for autumn leaves. If left neglected, it could fill up with fallen leaves and branches within 2-3 seasons and become a problem, as happened with a number of abandoned pools in the area. It is simply unpleasant as it spells danger for children and animals.
Photo above is taken around 5pm in January - with low winter sun shining from the west (left side on the photo). Oriented long axis North-South, this old pool made a perfect shell for a sunken greenhouse. One half of the pool was covered with a roof; a South-facing wall completed the new growing space. Of course, when dealing with anything sunken, solar exposure (or lack of thereof) and water-harvesting virtues are to be considered. In other words it is likely that there will be some lack of sunlight from the shade cast by the surrounding walls; and water will collect in the lowest spot (i.e. under your feet) after each rain. Here in NM the rainfall is around 9" per annum, and though there are very heavy rains in the summer that flood the pool/greenhouse to about 3", such rains are followed by hot dry days and water simply evaporates without much damage. The floor in this (and most pools) is slightly uneven and most water does not even enter the greenhouse (a simple wooden threshold holds water back!). The old drain is not functioning, yet no problem so far after 10 years of use.
Some years we use fallen leaves that collect on the bottom of the pool and push them against north wall where they act as a sponge for extra water and decompose without any assistance into wonderful rich soil food - which, as you may guess, is then used in the greenhouse itself.
This greenhouse has another great advantage - being sunken into the earth it has a substantial thermomass, which means it is significantly more immune to temperature swings than a typical freestanding glass/plastic greenhouse. Less temperature swings means a longer growing season on both ends of the year - there is slower cooling off in the winter (plants stay cozy longer and grow better) and slower warming up in the spring (plants don't bolt so fast and they don't get infested with bugs due to unfavorable growing conditions). In general, when thinking about a greenhouse, it is best to choose an attached (to a house or another building) construction. In this case, the earthen banks serve as thick insulation from the elements, an attachment of sorts.
This particular greenhouse is a part of an active poultry/goat yard. This is why you can see some wood logs placed on the roof of the greenhouse (photo above) - this is to discourage goats from using the roof as their playground (yes, logs work). There is nothing more worrisome than an active goat family on the roof of the building while you are inside and under them!
Seven steps down, across the pool, through the door - welcome to the greenhouse. Since this is a permaculture greenhouse, it serves more than one function (Each element serves multiple functions in permaculture design; element being any object, thing, component or participant of the design). Besides growing greens, it is used as milk parlor for two dairy goats. To produce high quality raw milk, it is very important to have a clean, contained, dust free environment that is removed from the animal barn. The goats get milked in the greenhouse, which is easy to keep relatively clean (broom + occasional shop vac), and which stays considerably more comfortable and warm in the winter (try milking when your hands are freezing!!!) and cozy in the summer (no flies, no eager chickens interested in goat feed). On the photo above, Nubian goat Rosa is on the milk stand, eating her meal before being milked. Foreground shows blue barrels filled with water for additional thermomass (I started to paint one of them white to increase light reflection, but paint smell made me stop resulting in an ugly paintjob. I think it will remain that way for ever now.). Sun makes the water in those barrels warm (relatively speaking) and then the heat is radiated at night to keep the space yet a little warmer.
Another element to notice is insulation on the roof and back wall. Heat raises. It exits through the roof, in every building that has insufficient insulation. That is bad news for buildings made with glass and plastic roofs, such as greenhouses! One way to deal with this is to realize that in the winter the sun is quite low, most of it shines on the plants through the South glass wall; not as much through the roof. Therefore, if Northern half of the greenhouse is fully insulated, top and sides, there is no noticeable loss of light! Southern half of the space has partial insulation, and partial clear glazing - with heat losses occurring here for sure, but only via about 20% of total roof space. Take another look at the picture above to see how sun reaches directly to the far (Northern) wall; with the photo taken around 5pm in late January (short days, weaker sun).
In the summer the greenhouse gets a rest, as far as growing goes - the milk parlor use continues. Now we are experimenting with figs, artichokes and leeks and will probably keep it green year round. August - May is the main growing season for this space, with winter greens abundant and healthy as no bugs can survive the summer resting period with no greens to munch on.
Last word on keeping it warm in bitter cold. Soil and water barrels are placed on top of 2" insulation, so they don't "bleed" their heat into the surrounding cement. On coldest nights row covers are placed over greens to give them an additional cushion. Adding more water barrels or a large pond would be a good next step, as water stores heat and adds to the ambiance of any greenhouse. Happy growing!
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GardenPool.org - Unlimited organic aquaponic food for life from an old backyard swimming pool
Greenhouse Vegetable Production
Soil Culture
The easiest way to get started in greenhouse vegetable production is to use the existing soil on site, but soils must be well drained. Soils can be improved by applying ample quantities of well-rotted livestock manure, compost, or composted livestock manure. Apply all manures before fumigation. Soils should be fumigated or sterilized with steam at least two weeks before planting. If the soil is steamed, maintain a temperature of 180°F for at least four hours. Avoid deep tillage after sterilization to prevent reintroduction of weed seed and disease organisms from below the sterilization or fumigation zone.
A soil test should be taken before planting to determine the amount of fertilizer to apply for each crop. All phosphorous and potassium fertilizers should be applied before planting and incorporated directly into the soil. Nitrogen fertilizers should be applied in split applications, part before planting and the rest as needed during the growing season. Nitrogen fertilizers can be applied as sidedressings or through a drip irrigation system. Secondary and minor fertilizer elements should be applied as needed.
Hydroponic Culture
Hydroponic culture of greenhouse vegetables involves the production of crops in sand, gravel, or artificial soil-less mixes in bags, tubes, tubs, tanks, or troughs designed to allow the circulation of nutrient media needed for crop growth. Unlike conventional soil culture, hydroponic culture of greenhouse vegetables is less forgiving and requires intense management. Although present automation systems can minimize fertilization and irrigation labor inputs, continuous monitoring of the system is important. Growers must be highly knowledgeable about plant growth, nutrient balances, cultural media characteristics, and plant physiology. Nevertheless, hydroponics allows the culture of greenhouse vegetables in areas where soils are not suitable for vegetable production.
Crops and Culture
Tomatoes are the most common vegetables grown in greenhouses, followed by cucumbers. Both are grown in the off-season (fall, winter, and spring) to take advantage of premium prices. Leaf and Bibb lettuces often are grown in the winter in cooler areas of the state. Other popular crops include bell peppers, eggplant, and herbs like basil.
Integrated Pest Management
Integrated pest management (IPM) is a holistic approach to the management of pests. IPM does not exclude the use of pesticides in the greenhouse. Rather, pesticides are used in combination with cultural, natural, mechanical, and biological control as well as insect monitoring to maximize the effectiveness of control methods. Reduced use of pesticides under more effective timing schedules reduces not only the adverse effects of these chemicals on the environment and people, but also reduces the chance of pests developing resistance. For more information on pest control techniques, contact your local county Extension agent.
Tomato Planting
One or two tomato crops can be planted in the greenhouse during the year. Planting, transplanting, and harvest dates will vary depending on location. As most tomato varieties will begin to ripen 100 days after planting, seed should be planted so the fruit begin to ripen soon after first frost for fall crops.
In cooler areas of New Mexico, tomato crops are generally planted in early July and transplanted to greenhouse beds in mid-August. Harvest will begin in October and may continue until early March. Harvesting may be terminated at an earlier date if heating costs become extreme. Late spring harvest can be accomplished by delaying planting until late fall or early winter. Planting dates in southern New Mexico should be delayed until mid-August or later due to hot weather in mid-summer.
Plants are best started in individual containers (plastic pots, peat pots, or cubes) to reduce labor costs and reduce transplanting shock. Use of commercial sterile potting mixes will decrease the incidence of seedling disease problems. Custom soil mixes can be used, but must be pasteurized to eliminate insects, diseases, and weed seed. Heating the moist soil mixture to a temperature of 160°F for 30 minutes will kill most pests.
Sow two to three seeds per pot (1/4-inch deep) and water. Then cover pots with clear polyethylene and place in the shade (70F) until seedlings emerge. Plastic should then be removed and the pots moved into full sun. Thin the seedlings to one plant per pot.
If possible, seedlings should be grown at daytime temperatures of 58-60F (nighttime 52-56F) for the first 10-14 days. This initial cold treatment should help seedlings develop larger cotyledons and thicker stems. Plants should also set more early fruit, increasing both early and total yields. Thereafter a daytime temperature of 70-75F (nighttime 60-62F) should be maintained. After the initial cold treatment, temperatures should not fall below 55F, which may cause rough, irregularly shaped fruit and stunted plant growth. Temperatures can be reduced slightly during cloudy days.
Irrigation water may have to be heated in the winter before use. Water less than 50F will chill the roots, causing poor growth. Plants should be fertilized weekly with a starter solution (1/2 ounce of 21-53-0 per gallon of water) in the irrigation water. As plants become larger, feeding can be increased to twice a week.
Transplants should be established in the ground beds approximately four to six weeks after seeding. Set transplants in the soil 1 inch deeper than previously grown. Space plants 15-18 inches apart in rows 3-3.5 feet wide. Water immediately after transplanting.
Training
Plants should be trained as single (main) stems by removing all side shoots or suckers that develop between leaf petioles and the stems. Remove shoots by snapping them off, not cutting, as diseases can be transmitted on the knife blade. Vines can be supported by plastic or binder twine loosely anchored around the base of the plants (non-slip loop) and to overhead support wires (11- to 12-gauge) running the length of the row. Overhead wires should be at least 7 feet above the surface of the bed and be firmly anchored to support structures.
Twine should be wrapped clockwise around the vine as it develops, with one complete swirl every three leaves. The vine should be supported by the twine under the leaves, not the stems of the fruit clusters. Also wrap twine in the same direction, using clips or tape to keep vines from slipping down the twine. Do not try to wrap the twine around the growing tip because the tip may break.
When plants reach overhead supporting wires, untie the twine and lower vines and twine at least 3 feet. After lowering, vines should all lean in one direction in one row. Vines in adjacent rows should lean in the opposite direction. Retie twine with the vines to the support wire. Be sure to leave at least 4-5 feet of extra twine for this purpose when initially tying vines. Remove any leaves that lie on the soil.
About 40-45 days before terminating harvest, plants can be "topped" by pinching out the terminal growing tip. Keep two leaves above the top flower cluster. Topping vines will force remaining food reserves into maturing fruit already present on the vines. Continue to remove any suckers that develop.
As fruit mature on the lower part of the vine, pinch off older leaves below the fruit. This will provide better air circulation, which helps to reduce the incidence of disease and opens vines up for spraying and harvesting.
Growers should remove any deformed, immature fruit which will ultimately become culls. Removing excess fruit also will result in larger tomatoes at harvest that can be sold at a premium price.
Pollination
Mechanical pollination of tomato flowers is generally needed in the greenhouse due to limited air movement and high humidity. An electric or battery-powered vibrator can be used to vibrate flower clusters just above the area where they originate from the stem. The vibration will release pollen necessary for pollination. This can be done twice a day (around 10:00 am and 3:00 pm). If tobacco mosaic virus has been a problem, the vibrator should be wiped after each use with a clean cloth or sponge moistened in a 5 percent chlorine solution. Because all flowers on a cluster do not open at the same time, the same cluster will have to be vibrated again as new flowers open. Air from a mist-blower also has been found effective in pollinating tomatoes.
A number of factors can result in poor fruit set. The most common problem is temperature extremes (above 90F during the daytime, above 75F at night, or below 57F at night). Other adverse conditions include high humidity, low light intensity, nutrient imbalances, pests, and water stress.
Plant Nutrition
Optimum soil pH for tomato production is 5.8-6.8. Depending on a soil analysis, phosphorous should be applied pre-plant incorporated at a rate of 200-400 lb/a of P2O5. Soils deficient in potassium may require similar quantities of potassium (K20). Both the phosphorous (treble-superphosphate) and potassium (potassium sulfate) should be incorporated to a depth of 8-12 inches. Approximately 50 lb/a of elemental nitrogen should be applied before planting. Additional nitrogen can be applied as a sidedressing or through the irrigation system as needed. Leaf analysis is the best way to determine additional nutrient requirements. Plants exhibiting deficiencies of minor elements such as iron or zinc can be treated with foliar applications of iron or zinc sulfates or chelates.
Mulching
A mulch of clean straw can be placed around plants to a depth of 3-4 inches. Mulches will help conserve moisture and keep soil from compacting between plants. Mulches are most effective when used in combination with drip irrigation.
Harvesting
Fruit should remain on the vine for as long as possible for maximum quality. However, market specifications will determine whether fruit should be harvested earlier (light red stage). Plants are generally harvested two to three times a week. Fruit should be snapped from the plant leaving a small portion of the pedicel and green calyx bracts attached to the fruit, a distinct trademark for greenhouse-grown tomatoes.
Tomatoes should be graded using USDA standards. Most buyers prefer U.S. No. 1 fruit. The best market for greenhouse-grown tomatoes in New Mexico is between November and April.
Ripe fruit should be cooled to 55F for maximum shelf life, but never allow the temperature to drop below 50F. Light-colored fruit can be held at 70F until the desired color is achieved.
Greenhouse tomatoes are generally marketed in 8- to 10-pound baskets or cartons. Some two-layered cartons may hold 16-20 pounds of fruit. Cartons should be sturdy enough to prevent mechanical damage when handling. Fruit and packaging should be distinctly labeled with decals or other identification to distinguish them as greenhouse-grown tomatoes.
Varieties
- 'Tropic' - very popular; very firm, large, red fruited type (8-9 oz); resistance1 to Fusarium wilt (race 1), Verticillium wilt, early blight, gray leaf spot, and some leaf molds; tolerance1 to blotching and some races of tobacco mosaic virus (TMV).
- 'Jumbo' - similar to 'Tropic'; excellent yields; more USDA #1 fruit (8 oz); resistance to Fusarium wilt (races 1 and 2) and Verticillium wilt; not resistant to TMV.
- 'Floradel' - 6-oz fruit; resistance to Fusarium wilt, gray leaf spot, and some leaf molds.
- 'Floralou' - excellent fruit quality and color; vigorous and productive plants; medium-size fruit; resistance to Fusarium wilt and gray leaf mold; resistance to fruit cracking.
- 'Vendor' - develops good red color; medium-large fruit (4-8 oz); uniform ripening fruit; moderately firm; resistance to TMV (race 1), Fusarium wilt, and several races of leaf mold; fruit resist cracking.
- 'Pole King' - 8- to 9-oz fruit; sturdy vines; resistance to Fusarium and Verticillium wilts.
- 'Michigan-Ohio' hybrid - medium-large fruit (8 oz); resistance to Fusarium and Verticillium wilts; adapted to low light conditions.
- 'Tuckcross O and V' - excellent fruit quality and color; very productive; small to medium-size fruit; minimal fruit cracking; resistance to leaf mold (one strain) and Fusarium wilt.
- 'Trend' - high yield potential; large, smooth, red fruit; good crack tolerance; resistant to Fusarium crown rot.
- 'Furon' - red, medium size, beef-steak type; good tolerance to cracking and russeting; resistant to Fusarium crown rot.
- 'Husky Cherry Gold' - golden-yellow cherry type; vigorous vines up to 6 ft long; more compact and larger fruit than other cherry varieties; resistance/tolerance to Verticillium and Fusarium wilts.
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Pest Control
Diseases are best controlled through prevention. Selecting a sunny site with a well-drained soil, sterilizing the soil, providing good air circulation, and monitoring your irrigation closely will help keep diseases to a minimum. Nevertheless, keep a good supply of recommended fungicides on hand with an appropriate sprayer that will effectively cover all plant surfaces.
Seedling diseases include seed rot (failure of seed to germinate due to fungi), stem rot, and pre- and post-emergence damping-off. Damping-off refers to the attack of seedlings before and after emergence from the soil. Symptoms include the development of dry or water-soaked lesions at the soil line, resulting in stem constriction and plants toppling over. Seedling diseases are most commonly caused by soil-borne fungi like Pythium spp. and Rhizoctonia solani. Soil sterilization, seed treatment with appropriate fungicides, and good cultural practices are the most common control methods.
Root-knot nematodes cause plants to become stunted and wilt (diurnal wilting is common). Roots develop knots, galls, or swelling. Secondary symptoms of nutrient deficiencies may result from the inability of roots to take up the necessary nutrients. Soil sterilization is the most effective control measure.
Verticillium and Fusarium wilts cause leaves to become yellow along the margins and between veins. Plants become stunted and wilt severely during the day, but recover at night. Eventually the entire plant dies. Vascular tissue is streaked brown (streaking occurs high on the stem and into petiole scars with Fusarium wilt, and occurs on lower stems and is not evident in petiole scars with Verticillium wilt). For best control, use soil sterilization and plant resistant varieties.
Leaf mold (Fulvia fulva = Cladosporium fulvum) is the most common and destructive disease in greenhouse-grown tomatoes, and is particularly severe under conditions of high humidity. Lower leaves develop pale green spots on their upper surfaces and eventually turn yellow; spots become covered with patches of olive-green to brown mold on the bottoms of leaves. Maintaining humidity below 90 percent by providing good air circulation will help control this disease. Use appropriate fungicides, resistant varieties, and soil sterilization for maximum results.
Gray mold (Botrytis cinerea) is a grayish, powdery, moldy growth on fruit, leaves, and stems. Use similar control measures as for leaf mold; resistant varieties are unavailable.
Early blight (Alternaria solani), which may occur at any time in the season, causes collar rot of seedlings and spotting on leaves and fruit. Note that concentric rings on leaves create a target pattern. Use similar controls as for leaf mold.
Bacterial wilt (Pseudomonas solanacearum) causes diseased plants to wilt and die rapidly (with no yellowing or leaf necrosis). The pith in the stem near the soil line will become water-soaked and dark. Best controls include good sanitation and soil sterilization.
Tobacco mosaic virus (TMV) disease reduces fruit set and quality. A mosaic or mottled appearance of the leaves is the most common symptom. Plants infected as seedlings are usually stunted and slightly yellow; the leaves also may be curled, small, or deformed. Greenhouse workers should wash their hands carefully with soap and water after using tobacco products. Remove any diseased plants as they appear.
Fruit rots are caused by fungi like Alternaria, Phytophthora, and Botrytis. Maintaining optimum temperature and humidity are critical for good control. Use of registered fungicides can help to reduce the incidence and severity of fruit rots as can good greenhouse sanitation. Handle fruit carefully to prevent bruising.
Physiological diseases that can cause problems with greenhouse-grown tomatoes are blossom-end rot and sunscald. Blossom-end rot occurs when tomatoes are stressed for water and calcium, resulting in the formation of a sunken, brown, leathery spot on the blossom-end of the fruit. Monitoring soil moisture and mulches will help prevent this problem. Over-exposure of the fruit to sun can result in sunscald. Training of vines and leaves to cover developing fruit should solve this problem.
Insects
Aphids are small, soft-bodied insects that insert piercing-sucking mouth parts into tomato plants to extract plant juices. Heavy populations can cause leaf curling and plant stunting. Aphids also serve as vectors for several plant diseases. Sticky honeydew produced by aphids may result in growth of black sooty mold.
Whitefly adults are small, winged, white insects 1/16" long. They suck juices from plants and, like aphids, whiteflies are vectors for some diseases. Honeydew produced by whiteflies also will support growth of black sooty mold.
Thrips are very small insects with piercing-sucking mouth parts that feed on plant juices. They can spread tomato spotted wilt viruses and cause premature blossom drop.
Spider mites are non-insect pests (related to spiders) that feed on plant juices on underside of leaves. Leaves may become stippled (gray) and covered with a fine web; defoliation can occur with heavy infestations. Mites are yellowish to greenish with a dark spot on either side.
Other insect and non-insect pests that can cause occasional problems include cutworms, earwigs, snails, slugs, and various caterpillars. Sanitation, soil sterilization, screens on ventilation fans, and appropriate insecticides should be used for maximum control of pests.
Cucumber Planting
Cucumbers generally grow more rapidly than tomatoes and produce earlier. They also require higher temperatures, which means they are generally grown as a spring or early summer crop. Daytime temperatures should be 80-85F (nighttime 65-75F). Soil temperatures should be at least 65F. Lower temperatures will delay plant growth and fruit development.
Cucumbers are heavy feeders requiring 300-400 lb/a of P205. Similar quantities of potassium are required. Weekly feedings with a balanced fertilizer (20-20-20) will be required for maximum production. Never stress seedlings for water or nitrogen.
Plants are best started in individual containers. As seed are often very expensive, sow one seed per container (1/4 to 1/2 inch deep) in a sterile potting mix with the spiked end of the seed up (root will emerge facing down). Water, cover pots with clear polyethylene, and place in the shade. Plants will emerge in two to three days at 80-85F. Remove plastic coverings when plants emerge and place them in full sun.
After plants have formed at least two true leaves, transplant them to their permanent location in the growing bed. Cucumbers will require 6-8 square feet of space per plant. Plants are generally spaced 2 feet apart in rows 3 to 4 feet apart.
Training
Cucumber vines can be trained on plastic twine supported from horizontal support wires running the length of the rows (7-8 feet above top of bed). The base of the string can be anchored loosely to the base of the stem with a non-slip noose.
As the stem develops, it can be fastened to the string with plastic clips. Allow one stem to develop, removing all laterals and tendrils as they develop. Fruit buds should be removed from the first five leaf nodes. Thereafter, fruit can be allowed to develop, but continue to remove all laterals and tendrils.
After the stem reaches the horizontal support wire, it can be trained along the wire and then down another string suspended from the horizontal wire between the two plants in the row. The stem is then allowed to follow the string downwards to within 18 inches of the bed. It is then trained back up the original string with the stem forming a circle. Remove old leaves on the older part of the stem ahead of the developing stem terminal.
Fruit should develop at each node. Remember to remove all laterals and tendrils to encourage fruit production. Fruit production should continue for approximately 60 days.
Varieties
Seedless (parthenocarpic) or all female (gynoecious) varieties are generally recommended for greenhouse cucumber production. These types generally produce higher yields and do not require bees for pollination. European seedless cucumbers are generally the most popular type of cucumber grown in the greenhouse. 'Mustang' is suitable for early or fall cropping and has potential for high total production. This variety has excellent fruit shelf life and color, with 12- to 14-inch fruit. 'Bronco' is suitable for very early spring or late fall cropping (low light conditions). It produces high quality fruit 12-14 inches long. Other popular varieties that have performed well include 'Sandra', 'Boneva', 'Daleva', 'Padex', 'Fertila', 'Factum', 'Femspot', 'Femfrance', 'Toska 70', 'Farbio', 'Corona', 'Sweet Slice', 'Radja', 'Bella', and 'La Reine'.
Harvesting
With good management, each plant may produce as much as 20-30 pounds of fruit over a four-month period. European varieties are generally harvested when fruit are 12-16 inches long and 3/4-1 pound in size. Fruit are often shrink-wrapped to prevent softening from moisture loss. Store fruit at 55F with 80-90 percent relative humidity.
Seedless European greenhouse cucumbers are distinctly different from traditional field-grown cucumbers. Because of consumer expectations for field-grown cucumbers, greenhouse cucumbers may require some market promotion. Excellent selling points include their seedlessness, dark green color, mild flavor, and thin, tender skins that require no peeling.
Pest Control
Diseases. Gummy stem blight (Didymella bryoniae) is a fungus that occurs on all above-ground parts of the plant causing extensive damage to leaves, stems, and fruit. Light brown to black lesions occur on leaves, at nodes, and in pruning wounds. Leaf lesions eventually dry and fall from leaves. Stem lesions can crack at the soil line, producing an amber-colored gummy ooze, and can girdle the plant resulting in death. This disease also can occur as grayish-green water-soaked lesions on fruit beginning at the blossom end and can develop on fruit after harvest. Control by using steam sterilization of soil, good sanitation, crop rotation, and good ventilation. Avoid night temperatures below 60°F and overhead irrigation. Use preventative fungicides.
Powdery mildew (Sphaerotheca fuliginea and Erysiphe cichoracearum) fungus first appears as pale yellow leaf spots. The spots rapidly enlarge to fine cottony growth on the leaf surface. The spots also can occur on the stems and fruit. The fungus causes severe stress on plants as leaves yellow and die. Powdery spores produced on the leaf surface spread from plant to plant by air currents. Control through good sanitation, preventative fungicides, and resistant varieties.
Other diseases that can occasionally cause problems include various viruses (cucumber mosaic and watermelon mosaic), gray mold (Botrytis), damping-off, and crooking. Crooking is a physiological disorder often caused by temperature extremes, excessive soil moisture, and nutrition imbalances. Fruit will become excessively curved, reducing its market value.
Insects
Insect pests include whitefly, thrip, leaf miner, and other non-insect pests like two-spotted mites. Insects can gain entrance into the greenhouse through vents, doorways, openings in the greenhouse, and even on clothing and equipment. Regular plant inspections are important for immediate and effective control.
Lettuce
Lettuce is generally grown when light intensities are low and temperatures are cool. Plants prefer a daylight temperature of 60-65F and a nighttime temperature of 50-55F. High greenhouse temperatures will often result in spindly growth and seedstalk development in some varieties. A crop of lettuce can be scheduled between fall and spring tomato crops.
Lettuce usually takes about one month from seeding to transplanting. Days to harvest from seeding may vary from 12-15 weeks in mid-winter and from 8-10 weeks in early spring. Under poor light intensities a 9 x 9-inch spacing may be used, while a 6 x 6-inch spacing can be used in the spring as light conditions improve.
Lettuce is a poor feeder, but requires a high level of nutrition. Apply a balanced fertilizer before planting with weekly nitrogen feedings as needed.
Leaf and Bibb lettuce varieties are the most common types grown in the greenhouse. Popular leaf lettuce varieties include 'Waldmann's Dark Green', 'Grand Rapids', and 'Ruby'. Bibb lettuce varieties include 'Ostinata' and 'Salina'.
Other Greenhouse Crops
Other crops that have done well under greenhouse conditions include sweet peppers, eggplant, and herbs like basil. Popular pepper varieties include 'Cubico' (red), 'Locas' (red), 'Samanta' (yellow), and 'Doria' (yellow).
http://aces.nmsu.edu/
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Eco-Friendly House Siding Options
If you're planning on repairing or replacing your home's siding, you've probably already thought about the cost, labor, and maintenance. But have you also considered where the raw materials will come from, or whether they were responsibly harvested or mined? What about once the siding reaches the end of its life, will you be able to reuse or recycle the materials? Because a home's exterior can reflect as much about the homeowner's green lifestyle as the interior, we've put together some of the environmental pros and cons of the siding options currently available.
The first way to make your siding project more eco-friendly is to carefully remove the existing materials. Fiber-cement siding, aluminum, stone, brick, or wood may all be reused in other homes and kept out of landfills if gently dismantled in a process known as soft demo. You can either deconstruct your house's siding and deliver the materials to a salvage yard yourself, or hire a soft demo contractor to dismantle, dig up, and sell the materials for you.
Engineered Wood
Hardboard, plywood, and oriented strand board (OSB) are made from wood chips or wood veneers bound with urea or phenol formaldehyde resin. Urea formaldehyde has been classified as a possible carcinogen and presents an off-gassing potential, though phenol formaldehyde off-gases much less. In addition, engineered wood is cheaper than solid wood siding, but has a questionable track record due to poor moisture resistance and dimensional instability. While OSB and hardboard use smaller, lower-grade trees than solid wood siding or plywood, and therefore present an environmental advantage, all engineered wood requires regular maintenance and repainting.
Eco-Friendlier Alternative:
: Bark siding is less cost-efficient, but it's superior to engineered, composite wood siding because it's renewable and biodegradable; contains no chemicals, preservatives, or borax; is resistant to weather without toxic sealants; and can last over 50 years without paint, stain, or other chemical protection.
Vinyl Siding
It may be inexpensive, durable, require little to no maintenance, and sometimes installed over existing siding, but it can also be harmful to human health and the environment. The energy-intensive process required to produce vinyl, or polyvinylchloride (PVC), creates a carcinogen known as dioxin, as well as a number of other highly toxic byproducts. When the dioxins are released into the environment either through manufacturing or incineration, they are consumed by fish and animals, which are then eaten by human beings. In addition to cancer, dioxins have been linked to hormonal interference and neurodevelopmental problems in children.
Eco-friendlier Alternative:
Cement Fiberboard is manufactured using cement, silica sand, and wood fibers, which are noncombustible and do not release toxins when installed. Not only is fiber cement siding an eco-friendly alternative to vinyl, but because it is grained to look like real wood, it is also a favorable choice to engineered, composite, or actual wood.
Eco-Friendlier Alternatives:
To lessen the impacts of masonry, look for salvaged stone or brick.
Aluminum Siding
It may have a high recycled content and be recyclable at the end of its life, but aluminum siding requires a lot of energy to produce. It can also be easily dented and chipped; it provides virtually no insulation; and it conducts electricity.
Eco-Friendlier Alternative:
An environmentally-friendly, sustainable product composed of bamboo fibers, post-consumer recycled paper, and recycled wood fiber. It's as durable as metal, brick, and stucco, but it doesn't support bacteria or fungus growth.
http://www.chasinggreen.org/
Images Copyright: http://small-house.ru/
Bark houses are built with nature's shingles
By Nan Chase
Building houses with bark shingles is eye-catching and sustainable.
The rustic bungalow near downtown Asheville is a traffic stopper. Covered in big overlapping shingles of tree bark – rather than the usual wood, brick, or stone – it looks odd, a bit like a square tree.
Although the unusual house appears antique and rooted in the past, it was completed just last year.
Bark may look old-fashioned, but as a recently rediscovered and reengineered building material, it fits the profile of a modern, environmentally sustainable choice for new construction – residential or commercial, interior or exterior.
The poplar bark from which the shingles are made is salvaged from timber operations, and otherwise would be burned, mulched, or left to rot. Among the benefits of top manufactured bark shingles: They contain no chemicals, having been processed solely with sanitizing kiln heat. Bark's insulating heft keeps heating and cooling bills low. Bark requires no paint, stain, or other treatments. And shingles can last 75 years or more without maintenance.
I've learned all this because that Asheville house is mine. What began simply as a way for my husband, Saul, and me to have a house that would never need painting – we worked as house painters in college – has grown over the past two years into a living laboratory experiment.
Saul and I didn't know what to expect from a bark house, or whether there would be anything to notice at all. But it does feel different: entirely wind resistant in a storm, slow to warm up in summer, and quick to warm up in winter.
"In the context of high design, it has tremendous appeal," says New York architect Andre Kikoski, one of the few professionals putting bark into sleek modern designs, including the internationally recognized Second Home Kitchen and Bar, in Denver.
"The appeal is universal," Mr. Kikoski says. He likes the interesting patterns of light and shadow that are created in the bark's furrows when light shines on it from various angles. "And it has amazing acoustic properties. But best of all is that people can't resist walking up to the material and touching it."
Although bark-covered structures date back millenniums in some societies, the first appearance of a neatly squared bark building shingle – from American chestnut trees – dates back to 1895 in the southern Appalachian Mountains. Architect Henry Bacon, who also designed the Lincoln Memorial, invented the style at the resort community of Linville, N.C., where he used hand-trimmed slabs of two-inch-thick chestnut bark to cover homes. Some of those summer homes are still in use today, the exteriors untreated in any way.
When chestnut blight wiped out the main source of bark in the early 20th century, bark houses were no longer built. But in the past two decades, bark shingles have made a comeback, now almost exclusively in poplar.
"It's fantastic, it's local, it's durable, it's cool," says Matt Siegel, green building director at the Western North Carolina Green Building Council in Asheville. But he cites the price of the shingles as a possible deterrent to increased use and says that installation takes more time.
Bark shingles can cost twice as much as conventional cedar siding, but the upfront costs even out over time, experts say.
"Twice the cost upfront sounds like a lot," says Brent Simmons of Banner Elk, N.C., manager of green programs and sustainable product sales. And that can cause homeowners concern. "But if you spread it over many years, the increase is less than 1 percent for the whole cost of the house. It's a minimal up-charge for something maintenance-free."
He adds: "The biggest variable is the maintenance schedule. Every five to 10 years, the homeowner may need to paint or stain [cedar shingles]." But not bark ones.
Michael Chandler, who is constructing a new 3,200-square-foot house near Chapel Hill, N.C., says that using poplar bark shingles rather than cedar siding will add about $12,000 to the cost. But there's an immediate advantage: "Bark is made to look old when it's new. That gives it a sense of having been there forever."
My husband and I have found the cost of heating our 1,400-square-foot, two-story house surprisingly low, and that means savings year after year. Our bill for natural-gas heating, on-demand hot water, clothes dryer, and stove has never exceeded $100 a month, even in winter. More surprising to me is how little we bother to use the air conditioning in summer. Although the house has a southeastern exposure, the thick bark – in conjunction with covered porches and indoor ceiling fans – can keep the temperature well below 80 degrees F. most of the time.
And bark's sound-insulating qualities are prodigious. With the windows closed, I may as well be in the country for all the traffic noise that intrudes from our busy street corner.
When buying bark shingles, consumers need to do their homework to make sure they're getting a product that lives up to its potential. Practice has shown that bark's longevity mostly depends on three things: how well it's dried by the manufacturer to kill any microorganisms and stabilize the product structurally; how well it's stored to keep it flat before installation, and how well it's installed.
To assure that bark shingles have been produced sustainably, consumers should make certain that suppliers guarantee that they use bark only from managed forestlands, with certification.
Buyers should also use builders who have been trained in bark installation, because the shingles require special handling and nailing techniques, and some unusual design considerations.
"It's not rocket science to put it on," explains builder Daniel Hemp, "but you have to learn how to do it right."
My own interest in building a bark house came while I was helping to write a book on the subject.
By the time Saul and I had the opportunity to build a new house on a vacant lot in a downtown neighborhood, the historical research for the book had convinced me that there was no other material so tough or so interesting, for the price.
We opted to go all the way rustic with peeled locust porch supports and railings that, like bark, will never need painting.
I have gotten used to my "funny-looking" bark house, even if passing motorists slow down and stare. Each shingle is unique, with lovely gray and brown patterns and bits of moss and lichen. Occasionally a squirrel pops its head over the porch railing, maybe looking for nuts on this curious "tree."
Blogging rumors to the contrary, these houses do not attract woodpeckers searching for bugs beneath the bark. Kiln-drying kills any insects and also the sugary layer insects may inhabit in living trees.
Mr. Simmons, whose own part-bark house mixes modern and traditional elements, finds that the bark is attractive to at least one bird species: Nuthatches perch on his house with seeds they want to crack on the hard, treelike surface, and he enjoys the up-close bird-watching.
"One time there were 10," Simmons says. "I couldn't get to my camera fast enough."
http://www.csmonitor.com/
Images Copyright: http://small-house.ru/
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